Voodoo on rue Dumaine: Connecting with the Invisible
VOODOOFEST 2020, Queen Cherise Harrison-Nelsonm center
VOODOOFEST celebrates its 25th anniversary this Halloween, welcoming all-comers to learn and experience some of the many facets of this ancient religion – for free.
– by Melanie Cole
–photos by Ellis Anderson unless otherwise attributedFor many, the word “Voodoo” immediately conjures up visions: zombies in top hats rising from graves or noxious concoctions meant to harm.
Dispelling this type of Hollywoodized sensationalism is a personal mission for initiated Voodoo Priestess Brandi C. Kelley. It’s one reason she founded Voodoo Authentica of New Orleans – and the annual VOODOOFEST, held every Halloween for the past 24 years without pause – despite hurricanes and pandemics.
VOODOOFEST 2020
Voodoo has been a lifelong calling for Kelley, who began the process of being formally initiated into the priesthood in 2001. She is known in Voodoo circles as Mambo Brandi (Mambo is a Haitian term for “priestess”). She says spirit inspired her to share the truth about the Voodoo religion with the world and that led her to founding Voodoo Authentica in the mid-90s. VOODOOFEST followed in 1999 (an educational event not to be confused with a commercial New Orleans music festival that occurs around the same time). Her vision for both was clear: inviting others to experience the beauty of New Orleans Voodoo.
Brandi C. Kelley in Voodoo Authentica, photo by Lily Evangeline
New Orleans Voodoo is an African diasporic tradition that originated in Louisiana. Slave owners in the 1700s prohibited enslaved people from practicing their traditional West African religions and baptized them as Catholics. After the 1791 Haitian slave revolt caused an influx of Haitian immigrants – many of whom brought their “Voudou” religious practices with them – fearful slave owners doubled down.
The forced conversion didn’t work. Slaves continued to practice Voodoo in hiding, incorporating some Catholic traditions along the way. Many of those historic hymns, prayers and rituals are still used in present day New Orleans Voodoo.
As New Orleans Voodoo evolved through the centuries, it wove its way into the fabric of the city’s culture, including food, music and traditions. Kelley, who is a New Orleans native, feels that Voodoo flows through the very lifeblood of the city. As a child, she remembers sensing Spirit in the air, the water and in the natural world around her.
“Voodoo is about connections – connecting with Spirit, connecting with our community and connecting with the invisible all around us,” Kelley says.
On a recent visit to Voodoo Authentica, I personally experience what Kelley’s referring to. The shop is busy with small groups of people streaming in and out, but the moment I walk through the door of this historic building, I feel as if I’ve fallen down a magical rabbit hole and entered an entirely different world, with mysteries begging to be explored.
I’m struck by a delicious collective of aromas: potion oils, herbal blends, incense and candles. The place is filled to the rafters with Voodoo paraphernalia of every imaginable sort and I’m surrounded by dolls, altars, jewelry, posters and books, many of which are handmade by local folk artists and spiritualists. An extensive collection of African and Haitian art adds to the mystical vibe of this lively space.
One area of the shop is set aside for consultations where in-house spiritualists and practitioners offer readings, spiritual guidance and rituals (by appointment). Potion oils and gris gris bags are made on site and can be custom blended on the spot for clients.
Madame Lestelle, who is working the counter near the front door, tells me that potions may be the most popular item the shop carries. “We have oils to assist people with getting a job, finding love or attaining peace and balance in their lives.”
But even the full name of the shop – Voodoo Authentica of New Orleans Cultural Center & Collection – makes it clear that its core purpose is education and sharing. As is the mission of VOODOOFEST.
VOODOOFEST 2023
Back in 1999, Spirit inspired Kelley to create VOODOOFEST, and gave her very clear directives. It was to be a free event, open to the initiated and uninitiated alike, an acknowledgment of the many contributions Voodoo has made to New Orleans culture and heritage, and most importantly, an all-day offering to the Ancestors. She sought advice from her good friend, Quint Davis, the producer of Jazz Fest. While Jazz Fest had grown to be one of the preeminent music festivals in the world, it has always held sacred its cultural core.
It was crucial to Kelley that VOODOOFEST keep a spiritual and educational focus rather than becoming just another commercially-driven festival.
Mambo Brandi, VOODOOFEST 2020
Artist Amzie Adams (top hat, center) has created the official VOODOOFEST poster for the past 25 years. The design is unveiled the day of the festival.
Queen Cherice Harrison-Nelson of the Guardians of the Flame Maroon Society, gives a feminine insider's view of the uniquely New Orleans Mardi Gras/Black Masking tradition at VOODOOFEST 2020.
Ghanaian priest & master drummer, Osofo Andrew, VOODOOFEST 2020.
Bruce Sunpie Barnes, VOODOOFEST 2020
For 25 consecutive years, VOODOOFEST has remained absolutely free and true to its purpose. All are welcome and invited to experience the Voodoo community, giving a rare opportunity for attendees to peek behind the curtain of a living historic culture.
“There is a sacred and joyous vibe at VOODOOFEST. Being together, sharing what we love…it’s kind of like our Mardi Gras and New Year’s Eve wrapped into one,” says Kelley.
Then there’s the food – lots of it. For free.
“Mambos & Houngans stay up all night long cooking real food,” she says. “Real jambalaya, real butter beans with pickled pork and sausage, just good, good, food.” In a recent appearance on Emeril Cooks, Kelley goes into detail about the role food plays at each year’s VOODOOFEST.
Participants who have been steadfast components of VOODOOFEST all along are just as passionate about educating and celebrating New Orleans’ cultural legacies. They have played an enormous part in the event’s continuity these 25 years, and many have deep personal connections to Kelley.
The 7pm Ancestral healing ritual concludes VOODOOFEST each year. There is an altar for anyone to place photos and remembrances of those who have “crossed over” so their spirits can be honored.
“Tears of joy and relief are not uncommon during the ceremony,” Kelley explains.
People with instruments “come out of the woodwork” and begin drumming and singing out to Spirit. Everyone is invited to join in the call to all those who have gone before, inviting the spirits of loved ones to be with them then and there.
“What makes it so moving is that they answer back,” Kelley says. “You feel them with you and in you. The veil is always thin that night.”
VOODOOFEST 2023, October 31, 2023
Events Schedule
1 PM: Opening ceremony with Amzie Adams, led by Mambo Maggie & our family of initiated priests.
1:15 PM: Ghanaian priest and master drummer, Osofo Andrew, speaks about the importance of embracing diversity, and shares Spiritual songs from his native country.
1:45 PM: New Orleans Voodoo Priest, and published author, Papa Zaar, speaks about his close relationship with the ancestors & how they assist him in his work as a spiritual consultant and root worker.
2 PM: Mambo Maggie teaches us songs to the Lwa, and shares the enduring "Legacy of Love" passed down by her mother, internationally revered Vodou Priestess, Mama Lola.
2:30 PM: Haitian-Initiated Cajun Voodoo Priest, Jesse Brunet, a true Louisiana original, speaks about the fascinating history of the Cajun people and the tremendous contributions they've made to our local history & culture.
3 PM: Globally acclaimed New Orleans native, Priestess Ava Kay Jones, speaks about her Spiritual Journey, and what it means to be "Voodoo Catholic.”
3:30 PM: Published Author, Academic & Initiated Mambo, Dr. Ina Fandrich, speaks about the life & times of our Great Ancestor, Voodoo Queen Mam'zelle Marie Laveaux.
4 PM: New Orleans Voodoo practitioner, licensed tour guide and intuitive reader, Mam'zelle Kamille, shares spine-tingling ghost stories and enticing French Quarter lore.
4:30 PM: Queen Cherice Harrison-Nelson, of the Guardians of the Flame Maroon Society, gives us a feminine insider's view of the uniquely New Orleans Mardi Gras/Black Masking tradition through her moving interactive presentation.
5 PM: Accomplished New Orleans professor of dance & choreography, Mama Kai, showcases local and international dance movements from the African Diaspora, and shares the cultural significance behind them.
5:30 PM: Internationally renowned local musician and historian, Bruce Sunpie Barnes, shares Louisiana stories while performing some of his most popular songs.
6:15 PM: Bring your drums (and your clapping hands) for African Drumming 101! Award-winning percussionist, Luther Gray, of Bamboula 2000, discusses the African roots of our locally beloved rhythms. Everyone is asked to participate & learn a few basic beats.
7 PM: CLOSING ANCESTRAL HEALING RITUAL with Mambo Maggie, our extended family of initiated Priests, the Voodoo Authentica Ritual Troupe.
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