Mardi Gras Day 2024: Lower Quarter style

The St. Anthony Ramblers, with the Panorama Brass Band pauses beneath the office of French Quarter Journal on Mardi Gras day.


February 2024

Mardi Gras has many faces in New Orleans, depending on one’s vantage point. There’s the upper Bourbon Street version with raucous, sardine-packed crowds that’s been popularized nationally. Locals swear by the family-friendly Uptown and Mid-City parade route varieties, the amazing Mardi Gras Indian meanderings or the gay costuming competitions mid-French Quarter. But our own favorite Mardi Gras perspective takes place in the lower French Quarter and Marigny neighborhoods, where our journal’s office is located.

St. Anne gets the credit for starting the growing trend. More than 50 years ago, a group of artists started the Société of Sainte Anne, who revived the old-fashioned walking parades and dressed in outrageous and fantastic handmade costumes. Each MG morning, they paraded from the Bywater through the French Quarter, then to the Mississippi River. There, they consigned the ashes or tokens of loved ones who had passed during the year to the water rushing toward the Gulf.


Video of St. Anne’s parade 2024 by Isabelle Jacopin, Isabelle Jacopin Gallery, 829 Royal Street. 

In the early decades, the krewe’s march was a rare stream of dazzling color and fiery glory, flowing between banks of parade-goers dressed in street clothes. Through the decades, other local walking krewes formed, inspired by St. Anne. Today there are dozens. With more debuting every year.

And the costuming code has caught on with spectators who aren’t in a krewe. Nearly all locals and many visitors from far-flung places don festive get-ups just to watch. The better and more inventive the costume, the higher one’s status for the day. So on Mardi Gras day, the entire lower Quarter becomes a wildly spinning kaleidoscope of color and good cheer.

- photos by Ellis Anderson and Gregg Martel

Note: For optimum viewing, enjoy this feature with a large-screen device.  Unattributed photos by Ellis Anderson 
 

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This feature is supported by the Isabelle Jacopin Gallery








Parade-goers were invited to pass through the belly of the voracious fish.





Artist Amzie Adams wore an Amzie diorama top hat. Photo by Gregg Martel














Photo by Gregg Martel


Societe Des Champs Elysee at the river, photo by Gregg Martel.






Photo by Gregg Martel



photo by Gregg Martel








Members of St. Cecilia’s take a break at the French Quarter Journal office, (L - R), Cherry May, Kate McNee (headdress artist and co-founder of the Society of St. Cecilia) and Lily McNee Haggerty.


Swinging Mermaid on Chartres Street, Mardi Gras 2022. Mermaid: Laura Kamenitz, house float design: Edward R. Cox-Simply Stunning Designs - NOLA.





 
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Ellis Anderson

Ellis Anderson first came to the French Quarter in 1978 as a young musician and writer.  Eventually, she also became a silversmith and represented local artists as owner of Quarter Moon Gallery, with locations in the Quarter and Bay St. Louis, on the Mississippi Gulf Coast.  

Her book about the Bay's Katrina experience, Under Surge, Under Siege, was published by University Press of Mississippi and won several awards, including the Eudora Welty Book Prize in 2010 and the Mississippi Library Association's Nonfiction Author's Award for 2011.  Under Surge, Under Siege was also short-listed as nonfiction finalist for the 2012 William Saroyan International Book Prize, Stanford University Libraries.

 In 2011, Anderson founded her first digital publication, the Shoofly Magazine and served as publisher from 2011 - 2022.  She established French Quarter Journal in 2019, where she currently serves as publisher and managing editor.

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