Behind the Barricades
In addition to serving the ever-popular French 75 champagne cocktails, Tableau (to the left), now offers a “Fence 75.” Chartres Street looking toward Jackson Square, September 2025
February 2026Restaurants struggling to stay open amid a year-long street construction project have devised creative incentives to attract diners.
– by Kim Ranjbar
photos by Ellis Anderson
This column is underwritten in part by Matthew Peck Gallery
Colorful slips of paper tied to the chain link fence in front of Zhang Bistro flutter at passersby braving the construction on Decatur Street. The restaurant’s co-owner Lily Rueangnuy created the wish wall in the hopes of manifesting a pre-Mardi Gras end date to the Sewage & Water Board’s project to replace century-old water mains in the French Quarter.
“I’ve had two customers all day today,” sighs Rueangnuy. “We’re doing a wish wall because they said they’d be done in February, but so far . . . “
Sadly, the wish wall hasn't worked. According to the latest updates (1/30) from the SWB, "we will not be removing the fencing and temporarily paving the blocks under construction for Mardi Gras 2026 as discussed in our first pre-construction community meeting.
The update pointed out that work was originally slated to begin in April 2025, but the late start pushed the schedule back.
Wish wall in front of Zhang Bistro on Decatur Street
"Unfortunately, if we were to demobilize for Mardi Gras, this would push back the timeline for the project's completion by over 10 weeks. We did not want to delay the project any further, therefore the decision was made to continue working through the Mardi Gras season."
Begun in July of last year, the Sewerage and Water Board of New Orleans French Quarter Transmission Main Project’s first phase started on the west end of St. Peter Street. Although the businesses and residents of the neighborhood have braced for the planned 12-month disruption for a year, the reality has been more difficult to bear.
Lunch time at Coop’s Place on a recent weekday. Often there are lines waiting to get in to the popular eatery.
Tall fences erected to protect pedestrians from the dirt and dangers of construction have also acted as a deterrent, driving business away from the shops and restaurants still operating behind the barricades.
“I’ve been to all of the meetings, and we’re asking for help, even signage to let customers know we are here, but it’s been really tough,” says Rueangnuy.
While water installation on St. Peter is nearing completion, the street still needs to be refilled and repaved, and repairs made to the sidewalks. Restaurants like Tableau are coming up with creative solutions to drive traffic despite the difficulties.
“We’ve installed uplighting to put on the balcony to draw people’s attention, and a bubble machine,” explains Lindsay Ross, Director of Sales & Marketing for Dickie Brennan & Co. “I also created a ‘Fence 75’, a riff on the French 75 cocktail. As long as the fence is up, the cocktail is only 75¢.”
As part of a large restaurant group, Tableau is at an advantage with their other restaurants which aren’t in the path of destruction absorbing costs, but smaller businesses aren’t so fortunate.
The view of Tableau from Jackson Square this September
Cafe Sbisa on Decatur Street
Unable to bolster savings due to a drastic reduction in tourism in 2025 and slower-than-usual summer doldrums, other restaurants are struggling to stay afloat. Sean, a manager at Creole restaurant Cafe Sbisa on Decatur Street expressed serious concerns regarding the restaurant's survival.
“This is something that can shut you down altogether. We’ve had waitstaff leave because there’s no business and without business there’s no tips. We’ve hired new people but it’s a scramble.”
The lack of street access makes food deliveries a test of patience and manpower, but it also deters customers who would otherwise be dropped off in front of the restaurant. Additionally, without proper signage, the fences make it seem like the sidewalks are closed, making the usual walk-in diners and foot traffic avoid the area altogether.
Co-owner Steve Smith at Turtle Bay, a sports bar and restaurant that relies heavily on foot traffic reports 30% decrease in sales when compared this time last year. “Nobody stumbles upon us [Turtle Bay] anymore, that’s for sure,” jokes Smith, who regularly posts reels of the project’s progress (or lack thereof) on social media.
In one such reel, Smith shows how ominous it can be walking down Decatur Street these days, calling the tunnel-like sidewalk dark and “uninviting.”
A tight squeeze between storefronts and the fence on Decatur Street
New Orleans & Co., the marketing and sales organization for the city's tourism industry, has attempted to be proactive in their efforts, creating signage, directories and social media to drive traffic to the afflicted streets during construction. Impacted businesses can sign up to be part of a free promotional wayfinding campaign here.
Other than wish walls and bubble machines, owners and management of the beleaguered restaurants are doing their best to cope. At Zhang Bistro, Rueangnuy is relying heavily on delivery services such as UberEats and DoorDash, while Tableau extended their reduced summertime hours far into fall.
“We worry about retaining our employees who are relying on us to keep business steady,” says Ross. “But we’ve had to be more strategic about how we manage shifts, and keep moving people around.”
At French Toast, a popular breakfast and brunch spot in the 1000 block of Decatur Street, owners Cara and Evan Benson are “blowing” through their savings, just hoping it’ll be enough to make it through to the other side.
“We have some travel groups booked for spring and fall, so hopefully those are good signs for the Quarter,” says Cara hopefully, though the flood of customers that usually patronize their restaurant has slowed to a trickle.
Smith at Turtle Bay has also admitted to resorting to their personal savings to remain solvent. “They’ve said it will take a year, but you know how New Orleans construction goes, it could be like dog years,” he teases. A “skeleton-ish” staff and private parties in their upstairs event space have kept them treading water thus far.
Empty booths at French Toast on Decatur Street during lunch time when there’s usually a wait to get in
Businessowners’ frustration and struggles are made more dire by unfortunate but unavoidable delays, with causes stemming from contractor disputes, the recent winter storm and even notable discoveries. In early November, SWBNO’s on-site archaeological monitoring firm found evidence of an intact deposit clearly marking the city's historical 1788 and 1794 fires.
Criticism of the city and SWBNO abounds, but many restaurant owners are trying to remain optimistic, simultaneously recognizing the necessity of an overhaul to the historic neighborhood’s 115-year-old water mains – even though it’s cutting deep, especially in the midst of Carnival season.
“During the summer we’re used to taking a financial hit, but now we’re in the season and it’s been a struggle,” says Ross. “But to me this was just a necessary evil. It had to be done.”
Apart from praying for a speedy end to a long, messy period of construction, one message the business owners and managers unanimously conveyed was appreciation.
“We get a lot of support from locals and neighbors, it’s why we’re still here,” says Rueangnuy. We can’t thank everyone enough!”
*Restaurants behind the barricade which need your support!
Cafe Sbisa
1011 Decatur St.
Cane & Table
1113 Decatur St.
Coop’s Place
1109 Decatur St.
Dian Xin
1218 Decatur St.
French Toast
1035 Decatur St.
Gumbo Shop
630 St. Peter St.
O.K. Ice Cream Shop
1129 Decatur St.
One More Pie
1101 Decatur St.
Tableau
616 St. Peter St.
Turtle Bay
1119 Decatur St.
Zhang Bistro
1141 Decatur St.
If we somehow missed you, please reach out to KimRanjbar@gmail.com and you’ll be added to the list!